G L Khajuria
Jammu and Kashmir as a whole is a land of temples, sacred shrines and of course a treasure trove of pilgrimages of varied hues which occupy almost every nook and corner of the State. There is no denying the fact that ‘Chandi Mata’ who is popularly known as Machail Wali Mata occupies a prominent place among the devotees. The Chandi Mata is mostly confined to Himalayan region. In Jammu, the temple is at Mahalaxmi Mandir, Pacca Danga and at Bhadarwah from where her Holy Mace (Charri) starts in. It is situated around 306 Km away from Jammu, (Jammu-Batote) by road and thence on foot to Machail Mata which is barely 30 Km. Though the terrain is too tough to trek but with the grace of Almighty Mata Chandi, one feels joyous in association with enchanting pilgrims echoing Jai Mata Di, Jai Chandi Mata etc. The entire trek remains dotted with Yatris of all hues in colorful attire. The main stopovers en route are Gulabgarh, Layondee, Kunderpul, Chishoti, Hamori and Machail. The entire area is surrounded by lush green, meadows and flanked by Deodar, Kail, Fir, spruce, oaks, shrubs and herbs. According to ancient sources, Maa appeared in form of Pindi, the same as it is in Vaishno Devi. She came here from the Mindal Bhattas, a small village in Himachal Pradesh to bless the people of Paddar. The Yatra was initially started by Thakur Kulbir Singh of Bhadarwah who was serving in J&K Police department and was posted in Machail. The mention of Machail Yatra would be incomplete without the mention of ‘Trishul Bhaint’ Yatra.
The ‘Trishul Bhaint’ Yatra leaves Doda city for Chinote Bhaderwah. It is preceded by a Jagran at Radheysham Temple at Doda city and then leaves for Bhadarwah. After reaching Chinote, the Yatra is received and welcomed by the local people at Chinote. The unique holy mace of the Goddess leads the pilgrims and provides them with strength and inspiration. Amidst nature’s ambience, the people trek mountainous route chanting “Jai Maa Chandi”, “Jai Maa Chandi”.
The holy mace is welcomed enroute by thousands of devotees at various villages. These inaccessible hamlets include Matti, Seondi, Hamiddran, Massu, Mao, Garh, Naral, Sugliangadi, Bathree, Mulgo, Shagaani, Kokandran, Rotae, Palalee, Betha and a big village Ligree having hamlets viz, Doordo, Stangarhi, Thatak, Shahalee, totee, Pondale, Tunkhel, etc. At Machail, a small village, rather hamlet is located at the sacred shrine of Mata Chandi and the devotees throng in queues for hours together to have a holy Darshan of Mata, to pay obeisance and seek blessings. During the trek, one comes face to face with nature in its true colours. One experience the silence of lush green meadows, the music of gurgling streams and that of trees when a whiff of air makes them sway here and there. One only needs a sensibility to experience this. The ambience around makes one spiritually surcharged. One forgets the daily routine life, and remains soaked in spirituality. The journey allows us to differentiate between bad and good.
The Yatra also allows us to know how faith brings people of different denominations closer to each other. The artificial barriers created on caste or region basis vanish here. The Yatris who throng here from different parts of the country have just one thing in mind -to get blessings of the Mata, and nothing else. It is also an opportunity to know the lifestyle of people living in far-flung areas where there are no basic amenities of life available. Chandi Dham Machail has both Shiv and Shakti. On the one hand, the Goddess Chandi (Shakti) is blessing her devotees at Machail village while on the other hand there’s a Shiva Lingam on the opposite high mountain where the pilgrims visit to pay obeisance on the pious occasion of the Shakti Yatra. The mountain is called Shiv Pahad. The devotees describe it as a unique union of Shiva and Shakti at Machail. The Chhari as such culminates at shrine Shakti where a Maha Yagya is held. Machail yatra attracts a vast number of pilgrims. Now with the increasing focus on Bhadarwah as a pilgrim and tourist spot civic amenities for this religious spot need to be undertaken on a war footing. The toilet blocks, road upgradation, plantation, rain shelters, retaining walls at steep points have to incorporate in the development plan for Machail Mata Shrine. Then increasing number of people will visit it to get spiritual peace. It will give boost to local economy, which is hard pressed at present, apart from boosting tourism.
(The author is former Deputy Conservator of Forests, J&K).
