Dr. Banarsi Lal
Kalari is a popular local milk-byproduct delicacy of J&K.It is mostly found in the areas of Shivalik hills of Jammu region particularly in Udhampur distt.of J&K. Livestock is emerging as an important sector in the economy of Union Territory of Jammu and Kashmir. This sector plays an important role in the socio-economic development of the farmers of J&K. In Jammu and Kashmir the number of animals per 1000 human beings are 882 while at national this number is only 457 as per livestock census2007.But even then the milk and milk production in J&K is low. In the Union Territory of Jammu and Kashmir about 80% of population lives in the rural people and about 60% of the UT’s revenue is generated by the agriculture and animal husbandry sector. Dairy farming is a potential source of additional income for the farmers of J&K. The contribution of dairy sector to the national income is significant. This sector provides insurance against crop failures and helps in increasing the crop production by providing the drag power, organic manure and cash income on a regular basis. Although India ranked first in milk production in the world but the productivity of milk in hilly areas of J&K is less. Maximum milk is produced in certain pockets of J&K. Lack of adoption of technological dairy technologies is one of the major reasons of low milk production in J&K. India is the largest cattle producer in the world and has large animal diversity and is first in buffalo while second in goat production in the world.13 per cent of world’s cattle population and 57 per cent of world’s buffalo population is found in India. Buffaloes contribution towards the milk production in J&K is lesser (0.27%) as compared to the national average (1.84%).Buffaloes breeding programmes can be taken in the Union Territory of Jammu and Kashmir. There is need of cross breed and Jersey bulls in J&K to improve the cattle breed in J&K. There is also the need of advanced breeding tools to increase the breeding bulls for expansion of artificial expansion in J&K.
Livestock rearing is an integral part of rural J&K. The major occupation of the rural people of J&K is agriculture and livestock rearing. This sector is the major source of income and employment in J&K. Agriculture and allied sectors contribute about 38% to the state gross domestic product of which 11% is contributed by the livestock. Dairy sector not only generates income and employment among the farmers but also supplements the varied nutritional requirements of the people. It has been observed that livestock population of livestock in Jammu and Kashmir (2011-12) has increased over the year 2009-10.Milk production in Jammu and Kashmir is steadily increasing. One of the major bottlenecks in low production in dairy sector is Jammu and Kashmir’s diversified climate e.g. temperate climate in Kashmir region and humid sub-tropical climate in Jammu region. Small size of land holding is another hurdle for limited milk production in J&K as there is not much fodder production round the year because of lack of modern technologies in small farms. Department of Animal Husbandry of J&K, SKUAST-J and SKUAST-K are providing the technical know-how on dairy farmers to the farmers and also providing the frozen semen of pedigree bulls to the veterinary dispensaries.Kalari making is promoted among the Self Help Groups(SHGs) members to enhance their income.After preparation it is transported in other areas of J&K.Cooperatives can play the significant role for promotion of Kalari. GI registration of Udhampur Kalari will open some new avenues of income and employment in the rural areas of J&K.
Union Territory of J&K is known for many exceptional things and Kalari is one of them. Jammu is said to be the home of the world’s most unique cheeses, called as the Kalari. Kalari was traditionally made from raw full fat milk, vigorously churned in an iron pot with a wooden plunger-like tool. The molten mass of milk solids was then separated by adding sour milk or curd called mathar. Once stretched, the flattened cheese was cooled on the black iron pot itself, before being placed in a bowl to solidify. The solidified cheese was then sun dried to help it lose the rest of its moisture. Since the ambient temperature in the mountainous area of J&K remains low despite a strong sun, the Kalari dried from the outside yet remain moist inside. Widely consumed in Jammu and Kashmir as a street snack, flattened Kalaris are salted and sautéed in their own fat on a hot griddle. After sautéing, the cheese develops a crisp golden layer on its exterior but retains a soft, creamy, gooey molten from interior. Flavoured with spices and served hot, Kalari is topped with chopped vegetables and rolled into a kulcha that is served with garlic and chilli chutney. In Jammu region of J&K quintals of roasted Kalaris are sold every day. It is liked by the visiting tourists in J&K.
Govt. is stressing on the value addition in agriculture and allied sectors and value addition in milk can help to open new avenues in J&K.Most of the area of J&K is hilly and about all the households in the rural areas are having cows and buffaloes. In the past there was sufficient availability of fodder as there were many meadows. There was lack of transportation facilities and it was difficult for the rural people to carry their milk to the urban areas. As milk is having a short shelf life so the people were processing their milk in the form of butter, ghee, cheese, kalari etc. They used to store these milk products and then after collection in large quantity, they were transporting these commodities in the urban areas. With the passage of time Kalari gained the recognisation and now it has become a delicacy of Jammu region. It is a delicious item and is liked by everyone. Kalari has become a source of livelihood for the many farmers of J&K. Starter or Mathar plays a crucial role in the preparation of Kalari. It is prepared by mixing curd in lukewarm milk and then milk splits due to the curd reaction. Solid part is taken out and a proper circular shape is given to it. Then this product is dried after draining the excess liquid from it. The ultimate product in this process is called as Kalari. Kalari is very tasty and is having cheese like taste. The remained liquid is called as Mathar and is used to split the milk. Again the special shape is given to the product and this process is repeated for 4-5 days. Kalari has its own uniqueness and flavor.It is different from cheese and it has the advantage of becoming tastier when is kept dry.Once it is dried up,it is fried on pan by adding salt and onion alongwith bread to make it ready for consumption. Bamboo baskets of plants leaves are used for the drying purpose of Kalari. Kalari from hilly areas of J&K has its own identity. There are certain specific hubs for Kalari making in the Jammu region of J&K. These areas are known for the quality Kalari. Women play a major role in Kalari making specially for the management of mulching animals. There is no milk storage facilities in the hilly areas of J&K so the women coagulate the milk to make the Kalari. Also there is poor road connectivity and lack of information in hilly areas. The middlemen purchase the Kalari from the farm women once or twice a week depending upon the availability of milk in the area. They weekly give the payment in cash. These middlemen then bring the Kalari in the urban areas and sale at a good price to the buyers. Price of Kalari increases with the movement of Kalari from one place to another.Proper marketing mechanism is needed to export it as that can help to generate more income for the farmers.e-Marketing of Kalari may also be promoted to enhance its sale.
Kalari is rich in nutrition and contains proteins, vitamins and minerals. In Jammu region of J&K Kalari-Kulcha is very famous and has its own delicacy. Kalari making requires skill and many institutions train the women farmers for its making. In this regards KVKs play the crucial role in imparting the skill on Kalari making to the farm women. By Kalari making entrepreneurship can be developed in the rural areas. Generally Kalari is served hot with tomatoes, bread, cabbage and onions. It can also be used in making curry. It can be kept for about one week under room temperature and can be stored for long time under refrigeration. Quintals of Kalari is prepared and sold daily in J&K. Kalari of Udhampur and Reasi districts are famous and is liked by everyone. There is need to promote Kalari of Jammu region so that the income and employment can be generated through Kalari making in rural areas of J&K. Kalari can be a boon to the farmers of J&K and special endevours are needed to promote it. Certain organized markets are needed to sale this produce.In essence,Kalari embodies a rich culinary heritage and showcases the hilly areas people of J&K resourcefulness in preserving their traditions through ages.
(The writer is Chief Scientist & Head of KVK Reasi).
