Faith in Every Step: Stories from pilgrims who walk miles to offer obeisance at Ice Lingam

Inside the Himalayan Cave where faith takes form

Niyati
At an altitude of 3,888 meters in the snow-laced mountains of Jammu and Kashmir lies the sacred Amarnath Cave Shrine, home to the legendary Ice Lingam-a naturally formed stalagmite that waxes and wanes with the lunar cycle. Believed to be a self-manifested form of Lord Shiva, the Ice Lingam is revered by millions as the living symbol of divine presence. It is here, according to Hindu mythology, that Lord Shiva revealed the Amar Katha, the secret of immortality, to Goddess Parvati.
Every year, during the months of July and August, the narrow trails that lead to this cave become a river of humanity-pilgrims driven not by tourism, but by tenacity and belief. More than a journey, the Amarnath Yatra becomes a personal offering, a test of physical limits and spiritual endurance.
A Quote and Questions That Stir the Soul
“When you walk through snow and stone and still smile, you know it’s not the body-it’s belief that moves you,” says Laxman Singh, 72, as he ties his turban tighter against the biting wind near Panchtarni.
What makes an old man leave the comfort of his home to scale icy mountain trails? Why do thousands of women, many barefoot and with infants, climb to 12,000 feet above sea level? Why does the risk of cardiac arrest, landslides, and altitude sickness not stop lakhs of people from attempting this pilgrimage every year?
Because this is not a holiday. This is a pilgrimage of faith, where belief is the only true preparation, and each step becomes a prayer.
These are not just religious tourists. They are pilgrims of conviction-from across India and beyond-who undertake the Amarnath Yatra, a challenging spiritual journey to glimpse the holy Ice Lingam, believed to be a self-manifested form of Lord Shiva.
The annual Yatra is not just about reaching a cave in the Himalayas-it is about rediscovering inner strength, shared purpose, and divine energy in the harshest of conditions.
The Cave’s Mystical Secrets: Seven Diyas and the Echo of the Divine
Step into the cave shrine, and an unexplainable silence grips the soul-until it is broken by a surreal “Shapak Shapak” sound, often described by devotees as the echo of divine energy or cosmic vibrations within the cave’s womb-like structure.
As your eyes adjust to the semi-darkness and spiritual intensity, you will notice something awe-inspiring: seven eternal flames-diye-that burn softly on the cave walls, undisturbed by wind, untouched by human hands. These flames are believed to represent the seven sages (Saptarishi) or possibly the seven chakras, symbolizing purification and divine connection.
There is no apparent source-no oil, no wick, no lighter. Yet they burn. For centuries, these flames have stayed alight, flickering like whispers of the gods.
“It’s a Darshan not just of the lingam, but of the entire universe at rest,” says Rekha Sharma from Bhopal. “When the lingam stands tall, the diyas burn, and the cave hums with that sacred sound-you feel Lord Shiva is watching.”
From the sacred geography to the whispered legends, from the burning diyas to the “Shapak Shapak” vibration-the Amarnath Cave is not just a physical place but a spiritual realm, where nature and divinity merge, and faith walks barefoot.
The Sacred Journey Begins
The Amarnath Yatra is one of the most revered and logistically challenging pilgrimages in India. It takes place annually in July and August, when the snow begins to melt and the route to the sacred Amarnath Cave becomes accessible. Situated at an altitude of 3,888 meters (12,756 ft), the cave houses the Ice Lingam, a naturally formed stalagmite that waxes and wanes with the lunar cycle.
According to Hindu belief, this is the cave where Lord Shiva revealed the secret of immortality (Amar Katha) to Goddess Parvati. The lingam, therefore, represents not only Shiva but the divine truth of life and death.
In 2025, over 5.2 lakh pilgrims are expected to undertake the yatra, as per data from the Shri Amarnath Shrine Board (SASB). From different languages, castes, and classes, they come united in one purpose-darshan of the lingam.
The Routes: Trials of Terrain and Spirit
Pilgrims can choose between two main routes, both full of physical and spiritual challenges.
The Pahalgam Route (Traditional) is one of the most popular and scenic ways to embark on the Amarnath Yatra. This route spans approximately 48 kilometers, beginning from the picturesque town of Pahalgam and winding through lush green meadows, serene forests, and breathtaking valleys. It is considered a more traditional approach to the pilgrimage, allowing devotees to connect with nature and the divine.
The journey takes about 4 to 5 days to complete, providing ample time for pilgrims to rest and rejuvenate. Along the way, there are key stops, including Chandanwari, Sheshnag, and Panchtarni, which offer not only spiritual significance but also remarkable natural beauty. Chandanwari is the starting point, where pilgrims take their first steps of the sacred journey. Moving forward, Sheshnag offers a tranquil environment, and Panchtarni is the final rest stop before reaching the Amarnath Cave.
This route is characterized by a gradual ascent, making it suitable for elderly pilgrims or group travelers, as it doesn’t require strenuous climbing. The slow pace ensures that pilgrims can acclimatize comfortably, making it an ideal option for those who prefer a less physically demanding pilgrimage experience.
The Baltal Route is a shorter, yet more challenging option for those undertaking the Amarnath Yatra. Stretching approximately 14 kilometers, it is considered the more direct route to the Amarnath Cave, but it comes with its own set of difficulties. Pilgrims typically complete this route in 1 to 2 days, making it a faster option for those who wish to complete the pilgrimage in a short period of time.
However, the Baltal route is known for its steep gradients and narrow paths, which can make the journey physically demanding. The trail ascends sharply, requiring good physical stamina and careful navigation. The path is also less forgiving, especially during inclement weather, and can be challenging for those not accustomed to mountainous terrain.
This route is particularly popular among younger pilgrims or those traveling solo, as it provides a quicker, more intense experience for those seeking a sense of adventure or wishing to complete the Yatra in a shorter timeframe. Despite the challenges, the Baltal Route offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape and provides a sense of accomplishment once the pilgrimage is completed.
Both routes present unpredictable weather, rocky paths, sudden rainfall, and landslide risks. Yet, more than 65% of pilgrims prefer to walk, often declining ponies or helicopters even when offered.
“For many, suffering is part of devotion,” says Bashir Ahmed, a porter who has been serving the yatra for 18 years. “They believe each step wipes away a lifetime of sins.”
The Ice Lingam: A Natural Miracle or Divine Manifestation?
The Ice Lingam forms naturally inside the cave from water droplets freezing and accumulating over time. Scientists describe it as a stalagmite formation, but believers see it as a yearly miracle-Lord Shiva appears before his devotees.
Interestingly, the lingam’s size varies from year to year depending on climatic conditions. In 2023, due to intense heat, the lingam began melting earlier than expected, raising concerns among devotees. In 2025, initial reports suggest the lingam is taller and more stable, renewing faith in the divine rhythm.
“Nature creates it, but God chooses to appear,” says 55 year-old Rekha Sharma from Bhopal. “That is how faith works-it believes beyond the scene.”
Despite state-of-the-art logistics, the human spirit remains at the heart of the yatra-pilgrims wait in queues for hours, eat simple meals, and sleep on thin mats under plastic tents.
Faces of the Faithful: Stories That Move the Mountains
Elderly Pilgrims
Meeet Vishwanath Tripathi, 84, from Varanasi. Despite being on medication for high blood pressure, he walked from Pahalgam to the cave over five days. “I saw death twice on the way,” he laughs, “but Shiva pulled me forward.”
Women Pilgrims
In 2024, over 1.3 lakh female pilgrims registered. Many came in groups, leading their families. Meena Devi from Haryana traveled with her daughters-in-law and grandchildren. “We women carry life inside us. This walk is nothing in comparison,” she says proudly.
Differently-Abled Devotees
?Mahesh Kumar, a 29 Year-old paraplegic from Delhi, was carried on a palanquin by volunteers. “I couldn’t walk, but my heart could fly,” he wrote on a board hung around his neck.
International Faith
Pilgrims from Nepal, USA, Canada, and the Gulf countries have been increasing. Manish Thapa, a Nepali pilgrim, called it “the Himalayas calling their children home.”
Langars: Kitchens of Kindness
Scattered along the route are over 140 langars, offering everything from tea and rice to raincoats and slippers. These camps are run by volunteers-many of whom take annual leave or use retirement funds to serve.
Harbhajan Singh, who runs a langar in Chandanwari, explains: “We come every year because feeding pilgrims is as sacred as doing the yatra itself.”
Many pilgrims credit Langars for saving their lives during heavy rains or physical collapse. In places where ATMs don’t work and hotels don’t exist, human goodwill becomes the currency.
Security and Sustainability
Given its location in a sensitive region, the yatra is heavily guarded. This year, over 40,000 troops and local police are deployed. Drones and facial recognition cameras are also being used. However, concerns about environmental impact persist. Plastic waste, deforestation, and over-tourism are raising red flags among environmentalists. The shrine board has introduced “green yatra” protocols-urging pilgrims to avoid plastic, carry reusable water bottles, and participate in cleanup drives.
“It is Lord Shiva’s home-we must not pollute it,” says Sadiq Lone, a pony handler who also doubles as a mountain cleaner.
Faith Economy: Sacred but Sustainable?
?The yatra boosts Jammu & Kashmir’s economy significantly. From porters to tea sellers, thousands earn their year’s income in just two months. According to estimates Rs 2,000 crore economic boost (hotels, transport, food), ?over 30,000 seasonal jobs created and ?local pony handlers earn Rs 20,000-Rs 50,000 per season.
When the Journey Itself Becomes the Offering
The Amarnath Yatra is not simply a trek or a tourism activity. It is an act of surrender-to nature, to faith, and to something larger than the self. It is where strangers become companions, suffering becomes strength, and the divine is not only worshipped-but walked toward.
As one signboard at Panchtarni reads: “You’re not walking to see God. You’re walking to let God see you.”
In every chant of “Har Har Mahadev,” in every teardrop shed before the Ice Lingam, in every blistered foot and smiling face-we find a timeless truth: ?faith doesn’t need proof-it needs a path.
And for lakhs of Indians every year, that path winds through the Himalayas, lined with snow, sweat, and unwavering belief.
(The writer is currently studying Journalism & Mass Communication at the postgraduate level at the\ University of Jammu)