Washington: Scientists have developed a new leather-like, biodegradable material using tea byproducts to make clothing, shoes or handbags, an advance that could help cut down the waste generated by the fashion industry.
Researchers at Iowa State University developed a gel-like film consisting of cellulose fibres – a byproduct of kombucha tea – that feeds off a mixture of vinegar and sugar.
The film is grown by using a symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY).
According to Young-A Lee, an associate professor at Iowa State University, the properties of this SCOBY film are similar to leather once it is harvested and dried, and can be used to make clothing, shoes or handbags.
The material has been tested for other applications, such as cosmetics, foods and biomedical tissue for wound dressing, but it is relatively new to the apparel industry.
The fact that the fibre is 100 per cent biodegradable is a significant benefit for the fashion industry, which by its very nature generates a lot of waste, Lee said.
“Fashion companies keep producing new materials and clothing, from season to season, year to year, to fulfil consumers’ desire and needs,” Lee said.
“Think about where these items eventually go. They will take tremendous underground spaces of the Earth like other trash,” she said.
The cellulose fibre reduces waste by creating a continuous cycle of reuse or regeneration, what is known as cradle-to-cradle design, Lee said.
Even if clothing is recycled or repurposed, it still eventually ends up in the trash.
Lee envisions a truly sustainable fabric or material that is biodegradable and goes back into the soil as a nutrient rather than taking up space in a landfill.
Using the SCOBY gives new purpose to the tea byproduct, lessening the fashion industry’s dependence on nonrenewable materials.
Working with a novel fibre is not without its challenges. Researchers conducted several tests to determine if the SCOBY-based cellulosic fibre is a viable alternative to leather for the fashion industry.
The tests showed that one of the biggest problems is moisture absorption from the air and the person wearing the vest or shoes.
The moisture softens the material and makes it less durable. Researchers also discovered that cold conditions make it brittle.
Mass production is another issue to confront. Lee says it takes around three to four weeks, depending on temperature and room conditions, to grow the material in the lab.
The researchers are working on how, and if it is possible, to reduce the growth cycle for mass production.
Researchers surveyed college students to gauge their response to a vest prototype made from the cellulose fibre. The majority thought it was made of leather, rawhide, paper or plastic.
PTI
