Manzoor Ahmed Naik
Shahjahanabad, built in Delhi in the middle of the 17th century, was the grandest of the Mughal cities. It was founded by the Mughal Emperor Shahjahan who shifted the Mughal Capital from Agra to this new city in 1648. Under Shahjahan, Mughal architecture had already reached its zenith, so the best master-builders, the most skilled artisans, and the best materials that were available in the wide realm of the Mughal Empire were sourced for this new project. It was to remain the capital of the Mughal Empire and the seat of the Mughal emperors till 1857, when Bahadur Shah, the last Mughal emperor was exiled to Rangoon, and the Mughal dynasty came to an end.
The team of imperial planners was closely guided by the emperor himself, carefully laid out the city. Shahjahanabad was situated on the western bank of the Yamuna River, and the Palaces of the emperor (now known as Red Fort) overlooked it. Two broad streets ran east-west and north-south from the fort. These were lined with shops and shaded with trees. A channel of water flowed down the middle of both these streets, providing a cooling effect. An important landmark of the city was the Jama Masjid- the congregational mosque. This was built on the highest point in the city, and a broad street connected it to the southern gateway of the Red Fort. On important days the emperor would come in procession down this road, and enter the mosque through the imposing eastern gate, to pray.
The city was protected by a high wall, which encircled it. This wall had originally been made in 1650, of earth, but this collapsed in the rains. Following this a new wall was constructed with mortar and stones. About five miles long, the wall was completed in 1658. In the first half of the 19th century, when the British ruled the city, the wall was repaired and modified and additional defensive structures, called Martello towers, were added. The wall originally had 13 gates, which were guarded and kept locked at night. Some of these gates are still in existence namely-Kashmiri Gate, Delhi Gate, Turkman Gate and Ajmeri Gate. Many of the gates were named after the important cities that lay on the roads that passed through these gates. When the British modified the fortifications, they added a gate, which was called Calcutta gate.
Many places of commerce and recreation gradually came in Shahjahanabad. Some of these were part of the original plan. Beautiful squares or Chowks, were located on the main streets. The most well known off these were Kotwali Chowk and Chandani Chowk. The former was named after the main police station, which was located there. Today this square is called Bhai Mati Das Chowk. Chandani Chowk was an important commercial hub with many shops and coffee houses, a Hammam (Public bath house) and a Serai located on it. The later was a resting place for travelers, built by the princess Jahanara, the eldest daughter of Shahjahan. Many of these buildings were demolished after the revolt of 1857, and later a Town Hall was built at the site of old Serai. Other markets that came up in due course were Dariba Kalan- where the rich jewelers and bankers were located, Katra Neel- famous for Indigo and Khari Baoli which even today is the largest spice market in Asia. Apart from the bazaars, people often went for recreation to the area in front of the Jama Masjid where peddlers of exotic wares, entertainers, story tellers and street-food sellers set up their wares and performances every evening. People enjoyed visiting several gardens of the city, which included the large garden which ran north and parallel to the main east west street, and was laid out under the orders of Jahanara.
Once the palace complex had been built and the capital shifted here, many people made Shahjahanabad their home. Nobles and princes built grand mansions, or Havelis, set in the middle of large estates. Shahjahan’s son Dara Shikoh, and the Minister Ali Mardan Khan built mansions near the Red Fort, overlooking the river. Ustad Ahmed, Master Builder of the Red Fort, had his estate near the Jama Masjid. Around these large estates other people built smaller Havelis and even huts.
Shahjahanabad has seen many ups and downs in its history. It was sacked by Persian invader Nadir Shah in 1739, it was sacked again in 1857 when the British Army suppressed the revolt against the British rule. Much of the city wall, many of its gates and buildings were destroyed after this. Then in the 1930s the new capital city of New Delhi was inaugurated, and Shahjahanabad lost its importance. But in many ways this city still contains the heart of Delhi- in its colourful bazaars, its beautiful Havelis, its traditional customs, and street food.